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KMID : 0604520120380020139
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2012 Volume.38 No. 2 p.139 ~ p.145
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Recovery of Covalently Linked Fatty Acid Monolayer on the Hair Surface Using Biomimetic Lipid
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Kim Ei-Suk
Son Seong-Kil
Lee Cheon-Koo
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Abstract
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There is a unique type of fatty acid in the hair surface. 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) is an unusual anteiso fatty acid covalently linked to the outermost surface of hair cuticle. A layer of 18-MEA is located in the upper β-layer of the CMC that is responsible for the low surface energy and low friction resistance of the hair's outer surface. The high mobility of 18-MEA molecule facilitates spreading of extraneous lipid by decreasing interfacial shear strength. In this study, we introduced N-hydroxyl succinimidyl ester functional group to the one end of C10 - 40 isoalkyl acid for regenerating hair surface with covalently bound fatty acid layer. The re-hydrophobicization of hair surface has been investigated by contact angle measurement. The inner moisture content of hair at different levels of humidity (40, 55, 70 %RH) was measured by electric moisture analyzer. Treatment with Hydroxysuccinimidyl C10 - 40 Isoalkyl Acidate (HCIA) was supposed to make hair surface smoother by filling the cracks between cuticles with covalently bound fatty acid monomolecular layer like cuticle glue. This glue effect was also confirmed with line profile of AFM images. Therefore, the moisture and structural components of inner hair were not easily flown out and the optimum moisture content could be kept constantly though the outside humidity level was changed. The lateral force microscopy (LFM) by using atomic force microscope showed that the friction force of hair surface treated with HCIA was decreased. It also showed the constantly sustained friction value even after shampooing repeated 15 times.
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KEYWORD
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hair surface, lipids, biomimetic, 18-MEA, covalent link
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